Bedford Astravan MK2

[3cav3]

About 3 weeks after the promised delivery date, these bottom rear quarter repair panels turned up. I'm just pleased that they are still available though. Quality looks really good despite being pattern parts.

[iangsi]

Are you going for a GTE bumper or an SRI type ?

Either, to be honest. I quite like the look of the GTE, have you got either for sale?

I've got a red SXI bumper the same as the SRI that I've taken the front fogs out of I could put them back, I'll get some pics if your interested. you'll need the separate grill though.

[3cav3]

Are you going for a GTE bumper or an SRI type ?

Either, to be honest. I quite like the look of the GTE, have you got either for sale?

I've got a red SXI bumper the same as the SRI that I've taken the front fogs out of I could put them back, I'll get some pics if your interested. you'll need the separate grill though.

Hi pm sent, yes I'd be interested.

[3cav3]

Have now ordered up my rotating spit. Just need it to stop raining so I can strip the rest of the bits off the shell and get it mounted.

[3cav3]

Finally managed to get a few hours on this when it wasn't raining and get the engine almost ready to come out. After looking at it Ive come to the conclusion that its going to be best to drop it out as a complete assembly with the gearbox and suspension struts all in one, unless any experts out there can advise me differently?
Also this weekend ive finally managed to locate the correct pre facelift GTE bumper and a centre console that hasn't got big speaker holes cut in it.
The bumper will however need a couple of cracks repaired so will be a learning curve again.

[3cav3]

My rotating spit has also arrived. Looks very well built for the price.

[Robsey]

I pulled just my engine out and left the gearbox in situ when I did my engine swap.
Mainly because I could not get the bottom wishbones / drive-shafts to release.

Normally it is matter of lifting the engine with or without gearbox up and out.
I used a medical hoist which was an absolute doddle to use.
(It is in my C18NZ to C20NE conversion How 2 if you are interested).

As for the spit - hopefully good simple solid construction.
It is only a car sized van, so should be well within the weight capacity of the spit.
The scary bit will be when you first tip the van on it's side and hopefully you have judged the positioning right.
Don't want to be banging the roof on the floor.

Plastics repairs - I believe it is down to preparation, good technique and not rushing.
You'll be fine

[3cav3]

I pulled just my engine out and left the gearbox in situ when I did my engine swap.
Mainly because I could not get the bottom wishbones / drive-shafts to release.

Normally it is matter of lifting the engine with or without gearbox up and out.
I used a medical hoist which was an absolute doddle to use.
(It is in my C18NZ to C20NE conversion How 2 if you are interested).

As for the spit - hopefully good simple solid construction.
It is only a car sized van, so should be well within the weight capacity of the spit.
The scary bit will be when you first tip the van on it's side and hopefully you have judged the positioning right.
Don't want to be banging the roof on the floor.

Plastics repairs - I believe it is down to preparation, good technique and not rushing.
You'll be fine

Thanks for the input. Yes it is a concern to me the first time I pull the pin out and try and roll it in case I've miscalculated the height for both the clearance and also the balance. Luckily at my work there is at least 3 forklifts and I will be utilising them to assist with lifting the shell up onto the spit and also to strap it to for the first roll over.
It's a pity I can't fit the van in the workshop as the lack of light,dryness and the cold is likely to slow me down over the winter months .

[3cav3]

Due to constantly running out of time, this project had stilted somewhat. However a friend of mine has offered to do the welding for me for beer money. I know a lot will consider this cheating, however, needs must. Just seen the job he did on an old j plate tranny ( almost the entire front end) so feel safe leaving this in his hands

[Robsey]

I do not consider it cheating.
It is making use of a valuable asset.

I cannot weld for toffee, but I still felt that I had copped-out by giving the work to Troy.
To be honest, the smartest decision I ever made.

[3cav3]

In readiness for the welding I finally got the engine out today . Aftercarefull thought I concluded the best way to get it out was to drop it and lift the van up and over the lump. This is where a fork lift came in very handy.
Now the engine is out I'm going to change the cambelt, clutch etc as it's now so easy to access. The dilemma I'm facing is I'm unsure as to how many miles the van has done. The clock shows 50odd k and the original owner thought this was the 2nd time round(i.e 150k). But for all I know it could be 250k. Would you rebuild the engine or leave alone as it starts and seems to run well.

[Robsey]

Judging by the MOT history, that mileage is correct.

Records show only 2 or 3 thousand miles per year since 2006.
It was listed at 32,662 miles in June 2006.

Last entry 52,035 miles at the June 2017 MOT.
MOT expired in June 2018 obviously.

You could check compressions for a general health check, I don't think it will need it.
It should only want a good thorough service and fluids change.

Possible issues (if any) will be dried seals or gaskets, due to the car being laid up for several months.

[3cav3]

Judging by the MOT history, that mileage is correct.

Records show only 2 or 3 thousand miles per year since 2006.
It was listed at 32,662 miles in June 2006.

Last entry 52,035 miles at the June 2017 MOT.
MOT expired in June 2018 obviously.

You could check compressions for a general health check, I don't think it will need it.
It should only want a good thorough service and fluids change.

Possible issues (if any) will be dried seals or gaskets, due to the car being laid up for several months.

By modern standards 150k isn't that high( these older vehicles went back to 00000 after 99999, guess the manufacturers didn't think they'd last any longer),but as there's almost no service history oil changes may have been missed. I've just bought a head gasket set off eBay for £7 so I'll pop the head off and look at the condition of the bores and probably grind the valves back in, give it a decoke and take it from there.

[Robsey]

But it is only 52k miles, not 152k, so there should be minimal wear... barely even run in.

I am sure if the oil hadn't been done on a regular basis, then the smoke tests at MOT should have been affected.

I know what you are saying, but -
" if it ain't broke, don't fix it.!"

You may disturb something, and do more harm than good...
But it is your van, and the choice is yours.

[3cav3]

But it is only 52k miles, not 152k, so there should be minimal wear... barely even run in.

I am sure if the oil hadn't been done on a regular basis, then the smoke tests at MOT should have been affected.

I know what you are saying, but -
" if it ain't broke, don't fix it.!"

You may disturb something, and do more harm than good...
But it is your van, and the choice is yours.

Ok thanks food for thought, the original owner was fairly sure it has been round the clock once, he used to do higher millage during the first 15 years or so,. That's the problem with mot history's only being available since 2005. The sump gasket needs replacing so I will remove this first and get a better idea of the state of the engine from the insides as the sump needs removing anyway. Lots of carbon and sludge will mean future trouble.
My Jag is now on over 190k and still not using a drop of oil, so with either 52k or 152k there's still hope.

[3cav3]

But it is only 52k miles, not 152k, so there should be minimal wear... barely even run in.

I am sure if the oil hadn't been done on a regular basis, then the smoke tests at MOT should have been affected.

I know what you are saying, but -
" if it ain't broke, don't fix it.!"

You may disturb something, and do more harm than good...
But it is your van, and the choice is yours.

Ok thanks food for thought, the original owner was fairly sure it has been round the clock once, he used to do higher millage during the first 15 years or so,. That's the problem with mot history's only being available since 2005. The sump gasket needs replacing so I will remove this first and get a better idea of the state of the engine from the insides as the sump needs removing anyway. Lots of carbon and sludge will mean future trouble.
My Jag is now on over 190k and still not using a drop of oil, so with either 52k or 152k there's still hope.

It's just a pity that my written off Mk5 astra van has such complex electronic s otherwise the 1.7 16 valve turbo diesel in that could be made to fit a treat and give this van a much needed power upgrade.

[3cav3]

[Robsey]

I am sure you could use an Astra-G ignition system to run the Astra-H lump.

All you need is a good Haynes manual and a reasonable understanding of wiring diagrams.

[3cav3]

I am sure you could use an Astra-G ignition system to run the Astra-H lump.

All you need is a good Haynes manual and a reasonable understanding of wiring diagrams.

That's where I come unstuck lol. I often look at your projects with awe at how simple you make the electrical side look. I would be very happy if I had only half your understanding of circuits.My brain just gets fried the second something ceases to be mechanical.

[Robsey]

If you still have the complete Astra-H / mk5 engine, and all the engine bay and dash panel electrical looms, it should be quite simple to transplant into the car.

Just a matter of having the necessary looms and control units.

The fun bit is fitting the fly-by-wire accelerator pedal wiring and position sensor.

TurboDan touched on this in his Z-LET conversion thread many moons ago.
Sadly he did pictures, but no "behind the scenes" stuff, which would have been really useful.

I suspect, just like him, you would need to do a lot of fabrication / modification work to get the turbo and exhaust pipe-work to fit.

As for making the wiring look simple...
In electrical terms, the general methods and layouts used to wire up cars upto about 2002 is indeed quite straight-forward and logical.
It gets complicated after 2002,
and at times, stupidly complicated from late 2005 onwards.

The simplest solution would be to use the Combo Van wiring set up.
This was not made fully CAN networked until about 2007-ish.

Sorry if that sounds total gobble-de-gook and voodoo.

If you were anywhere near Manchester, I could take the front-end looms from both vans and make up a solution to get the mk5 engine to run in the mk2.

[3cav3]

If you still have the complete Astra-H / mk5 engine, and all the engine bay and dash panel electrical looms, it should be quite simple to transplant into the car.

Just a matter of having the necessary looms and control units.

The fun bit is fitting the fly-by-wire accelerator pedal wiring and position sensor.

TurboDan touched on this in his Z-LET conversion thread many moons ago.
Sadly he did pictures, but no "behind the scenes" stuff, which would have been really useful.

I suspect, just like him, you would need to do a lot of fabrication / modification work to get the turbo and exhaust pipe-work to fit.

As for making the wiring look simple...
In electrical terms, the general methods and layouts used to wire up cars upto about 2002 is indeed quite straight-forward and logical.
It gets complicated after 2002,
and at times, stupidly complicated from late 2005 onwards.

The simplest solution would be to use the Combo Van wiring set up.
This was not made fully CAN networked until about 2007-ish.

Sorry if that sounds total gobble-de-gook and voodoo.

If you were anywhere near Manchester, I could take the front-end looms from both vans and make up a solution to get the mk5 engine to run in the mk2.

I wish I was but alas I'm in Hereford. The written off van is from December 2007, before they fitted the stupid idea of a dpf. It has sat in the yard since the accident, so still complete bar the tyres.
I think I will just have to live with the beasty 52bhp that the 1.6 non turbo puts out. At least if the government get their way and ban the sale of fuel in the future then it will run quite happily on cooking oil, whereas I believe the 1.7 won't.

[3cav3]

Tonight I removed the rear light assembly s at the request of my welder. Unfortunately the o/s one has been broken in the past. I've a brand new n/s one in the box- sods law I guess. Does anyone know of a source for a replacement? Many thanks if you can help. Even a good used one would suffice.

[3cav3]

[ Image ]

EDIT - Updated by Robsey - Link modified to show image instead of link.

Hi Robert, I've just noticed you did this- thank you. Do you mind if I ask what I did wrong as I couldn't get the image to appear?

[Robsey]

Depending which tab you select in the drop down list, some of the script can be missing.

I use the "next to the bottom" tab, if that makes sense.

[3cav3]

Pulled the sump off the engine tonight. And looked at the cam lobes. The condition of the internals are unbelievable. Almost no wear on anything. No carbon or sludge build up and the oil was reasonably clean. It's obvious that the engine has been very well services. Therefore the cylinder head will be staying in place.