Hi All
I'm probably being a bit lazy here as been on this forum for years and no doubt there is a few disucssions on CL not working. At one point I did manage to fix it before, for some reason there was a duff wire in the loom, from the control unit to the fusebox, so I can do wiring stuff, I just choose not to a lot of the times!
Anyhoo, my CL eventually gave up the ghost, actually last Year now if I remember rightly, and in the deadlocked position. So only can get in and out the drivers door. it became intermittent initially, sometimes had to turn the key a couple of times and it would then lock, but now stopped completely.
I'm thinking that it's likely the control unit in the door, is that what fires all the other units to lock, if so, it seemed to be that was getting lazy, as all the the locks would go slow, then work fast again, then not lock/unlock. It seemed all to be from the action of the drivers lock.
I think it's more me dreading having to take things out of a door lol, any of those do my head in, especially window winder mechanisms!
As always any thoughts appreciated.
Cheers
Andy
Central locking Gave up the Ghost
Moderator: Robsey
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Re: Central locking Gave up the Ghost
There are microswitches on the front locks that trigger the central locking. You should also be able to pulse the lock/unlock lines to test the system does work at all. Many remote alarms could do this too, which wires have slipped out my head right now, Rob will know, they usualy are found in the driver's footwell.
David
Re: Central locking Gave up the Ghost
Yes there are two micro switches clipped to the side of the door lock barrel.
The deadlock switch has the blue-black wire on it.
Usual causes are :-
Failed wiring in the corrugated rubber tube between the door and door frame.
Then there is the displaced micro-switches around the barrel,
And finally the control module in the driver's side kick panel - under the ECU.
From memory - blue/black to red/yellow is dead-lock.
Blue/black to ground releases dead-lock.
If using a remote from a 3rd party alarm, usually dead-lock is not required and people tend to keep the switch connected to the loom, but dangling in the door.
Operate the micro-switch a few times to see if pressed or released is dead-lock.
Memory says - leave the switch so that it is NOT pressed.
The deadlock switch has the blue-black wire on it.
Usual causes are :-
Failed wiring in the corrugated rubber tube between the door and door frame.
Then there is the displaced micro-switches around the barrel,
And finally the control module in the driver's side kick panel - under the ECU.
From memory - blue/black to red/yellow is dead-lock.
Blue/black to ground releases dead-lock.
If using a remote from a 3rd party alarm, usually dead-lock is not required and people tend to keep the switch connected to the loom, but dangling in the door.
Operate the micro-switch a few times to see if pressed or released is dead-lock.
Memory says - leave the switch so that it is NOT pressed.
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- Registered user
- Posts: 1465
- Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Paisley, Scotland
Re: Central locking Gave up the Ghost
I've no remote CL on it, just the standard set up.
I'll have a look at the rubber sleeve bwtween the door and pillar see if any issues with wiring.
Thanks
Andy
I'll have a look at the rubber sleeve bwtween the door and pillar see if any issues with wiring.
Thanks
Andy